The Knitting Architect
Necessary Data
We will begin here to become knitting architects.
Before we undertake a project, it is important to understand what it actually represents. We will learn to write a plan (directions) for the construction of a garment. This garment will be built of yarn and the unit will be the stitch. Relate this in your mind to a house and the stitches to the bricks. To build a house you need dimensions. Same for knitting a garment. To build a house of bricks, you must know the measurement of the bricks. Same for knitting a garment. To build a house you need understanding of shape and style. Same for knitting a garment.
Measurements
Let's temporarily forget about the house. To make a sweater pattern you must first have the measurements you wish the sweater to be. This is not the measurements of the body to fit into the sweater, but based on those body measurements you will formulate numbers adapted to suit the look and style desired. The necessary measurements are:
1. Chest Measurement: It is taken around the chest at the widest place. This body measurement is then adapted to suit the style and look of the garment and also the person's preference. For example, a casual drop shoulder pullover for a person with a 36 inch chest would be figured out on a 39 to 42 inch measurement, not on a 36 inch. A short dressy pullover would be figured out on 36 inches however.
2. Shoulder Measurement: This is a very important measurement. The chances are that if the shoulders fit properly, the sweater will look good even if it is a little too wide, too long, etc. But if the shoulders don't fit, then everything else will seem not to fit. This measurement is taken across the back from arm joint to arm joint. My suggestion is to reduce this measurement by 1/2 to 11/2 inches depending on the nature of the yarn used. Some yarns stretch more than others or weigh more than others. This added to the weight of the sleeves and the pull placed on the shoulders every time the sweater is put on compounds the problem and explains the need for the adjustment. It compensates for the stretch.
3. Length of Sweater: This measurement is taken from the underarm down. Whenever measuring from the underarm you must start 2 inches below the armpit. This is where your armhole will start.
You must always think of fit and comfort. Whatever length you have measured you must add one or more inches to it to allow for the desired amount of ease and blouson.
4. Length of Sleeve: The sleeve length is also measured from the underarm (2 inches below armpit) to the wrist for long sleeves or to where you wish to stop them for shorter sleeves. Here too, you might want to add 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches based on style and preference.
5. Wrist Measurement: This measurement is very important. It must be pointed out that it is never taken precisely at the wrist and for very good reason. The cuff of sweater sleeves are generally knitted up in ribbing on small needles. If the measurement was to be taken precisely at the wrist and the number of stitches based on that measurement, the result would be a very tight, almost impossible fit. The wrist measurement must be taken 2 1/2 inches above the wrist and to that measurement must be added one or more inches to allow for a comfortable fit.
6. Upper Arm Measurement: This measurement is taken around the bicep, somewhere around the middle of the upper arm. To this actual measure must be added at least the same amount of ease that was added onto the actual wrist measurement.
7. Forearm Measurement: This is only needed for very special styles. The sleeve around the forearm must be measured below the elbow and the same amount of ease added to the wrist must also be added to it.
Now please remember that everyone does not like to be fit the same way. Some people like looser fits, others, tighter. Be sure to know beforehand how the garment you are charting is to fit!