The Knitting Architect
Application of Charting Principles—Sleeves
We have covered the five most common types of necks. And we can chart instructions for a set in, long sleeve pullover with any of the above necks. That makes five styles. To double the number of styles that we can chart, all we need is one new element. Apply this element to all five styles above and that gives you five new styles. For example let's change the sleeve. Instead of a long set in sleeve, we will make a long pleated sleeve.
The only difference between a long pleated sleeve and a long, set in sleeve is in the sleeve cap. The sleeve is identical up to the bind off for the underarm. So we take it from there. (Turn back to the set in sleeve to refresh your memory.)
Bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch each end every other row 3 times.
Up to now everything is still identical to the set in cap. The bind off and decreases match the front and back of sweaters. The difference is here:
Work even until cap measures 6 1/2 inches. Bind off all stitches straight across.
At this point we will introduce a constant that applies to the pleated cap. The cap must measure 1 1/2 inches less than the length of the underarm.
From here we go to the puff sleeve. This sleeve is practically identical to the pleated sleeve with the following exceptions.
The cap must measure 2 inches less than the length of the underarm.
2. When cap does measure 2 inches less, it is finished as follows:
When cap measures 6 inches, knit 2 stitches together across the row. Purl back. Knit 2 stitches together across the row. Purl back. Bind off all remaining stitches.
Short Sleeves
This makes 15 styles we have learned to chart. By learning to chart one new element that will apply to the above 15 styles we will double the library of styles from which to pick. For example, we will learn to chart a short sleeve. This same short sleeve will apply to the 15 styles we can now chart. The caps for a short, set in sleeve, short pleated sleeve, and short puff sleeve are identical to those of the corresponding long sleeves. The only difference is in the body of the sleeve.
To chart a short sleeve, we need the measurement around the upper arm and the length of the sleeve. We also need to know how wide a sleeve we want. The principle is similar to that of the long sleeve.
To start, we take the gauge and the actual upper arm measurement (allowing for a small amount of ease) and multiply them. Gauge = 3 sts. Upper arm = 12 inches. 3 x 12 = 36 stitches. Length is 6 inches. It follows:
Cast on 36 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P1 for 1 inch (or desired length).
At this point we wish to increase to 15 inches, the desired width for the sleeve. 15x3 = 45 stitches. We even out this number just as we did for the long sleeve to 44 stitches. We must now increase from 36 to 44 or 8 stitches. That is 4 on each side. We recommend that these increases be done every other row as follows:
Change to 10 1/2 needles and stockinette stitch. Increase 1 stitch each end, every other row 4 times. Work even until sleeve measures 6 inches.
From here on the cap shaping are identical to those of the corresponding long sleeve. So now we can chart 30 different styles.
Lantern Sleeve
A variation on all these sleeves calls for all the increases to be done on one row immediately after the ribbing. It is the lantern sleeve. This sleeve applies to all the styles we learned to chart. The caps are identical. The body of the sleeve changes.
The principal for arriving at the number of stitches needed is always the same. The sleeve is 10 inches around the wrist. We multiply the gauge by the wrist measurement to arrive at the number of stitches. 3 x 10 = 30 stitches.
Cast on 30 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P1 for 2 1/2 inches. Change to 10 1/2 needles and stockinette.
Now we want to place all our increases evenly across the row. Our sleeve is to be 15" at the upper arm. That represents 44 stitches for our purposes (evened down). We need to increase 44 stitches less 30 stitches or 14 stitches. It follows:
Increase 14 stitches evenly across the row. Work even until sleeve is 18 inches.
From here on it is all the same as before. You can now chart 60 different styles. The lantern sleeve can be long or short. For that matter any of the sleeves described can be made to any length. You decide. For example, for a 3/4 length sleeve start with the measurement of that part of the arm where the sleeve begins. The principle is the same as for a long sleeve. The only differences are:
The sleeve is shorter and so the increases will be made closer to each other.
The ribbing may be made shorter or even eliminated based on style.
So now we have added even more possibilities to our library. Before we are done, we will be able to chart a multitude of patterns and truly become independent knitters — knitting architects!
Leg O'Mutton
The leg o'mutton sleeve is a very interesting sleeve. It is also a very popular one today. This sleeve represents a little mix of our other sleeves. For this particular sleeve we need the wrist measurement, the forearm measurement (below the elbow), and the upper arm measurement. Wrist 10, forearm 12, upper arm 15, gauge 3. So wrist is 30 stitches, forearm is 36 stitches, and upper arm is 44 stitches. The ribbing in this sleeve is done up to the forearm. We must increase while ribbing from 30 to 36 stitches. From wrist to forearm, in this particular instance, measures 7 inches. The row gauge is 4 so the ribbing represents 28 rows. We must increase 6 stitches, 3 on each side in 28 rows. So we divide 28 by 3 and we learn that we must increase every 9 rows. It follows:
Cast on 30 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P1 for 7 inches. At the same time increase 1 stitch each end every 9 rows 3 times. When ribbing measures 7 inches, change to 10 1/2 needles and stockinette stitch.
Now we want to increase from 36 to 44 stitches. That is 8 stitches. We want the increase here to be along one row, like the lantern sleeve.
Increase 8 stitches evenly across the row. Work even until sleeve measures 18 inches and...
From here on, pick any of the caps we learned to chart up to now. We recommend the puff cap. We find it to be the most appropriate for this style.
Also, the Leg O'Mutton sleeve looks best when made very wide.
Drop Shoulder
There are two other sleeve styles that I wish to cover here. The drop shoulder, which is the easiest and the raglan, which is the hardest.
For a drop shoulder sweater, like the others, we start with half the chest measurement multiplied by the gauge. We are still working with the same measurements. Chest 40/2 x 3 = 60 stitches. The main difference is that for a drop shoulder there are no bind offs for underarm and no decreases. The front and the back both are worked up evenly on both sides.
Back: Cast on 60 stitches on #8 needles. Rib K1, P1 for 2 1/2 inches. Change to 10 1/2 needles and stockinette stitch. Work even until piece is 17 inches. Place a marker on arm sides to indicate start of armhole and work even for another 8 inches. Bind off all stitches across the row.
The front is worked up the same way as the back. The only thing to remember is that because we did not eliminate stitches on either side we will end up with different numbers from those obtained for the set in sleeve pullover. This the way it will read.
Round neck: Cast on 60 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P1 for 2 1/2 inches. Change to 10 1/2 needles and stockinette stitch. Work even until piece is 16 inches. Mark start of armhole with marker. Continue to work even until armhole measures 6 inches.
Here we will start neck shaping. Remember we are working here with 60 stitches (not 48). We know that the back of neck measures 20 stitches. 60 less 20 = 40 stitches or 20 on each side. We apply here the very same principle we used in the set in sleeve (shoulder + gauge).
Work 23 stitches (20 + 3). With second ball of yarn bind off center 14 stitches and work 23 stitches. Decrease 1 stitch each neck edge every other row 3 times. Work even until armhole is 8 inches. Bind off all remaining stitches.
The very same principle applies to all the necks.
The sleeves are worked up differently. The upper arm measurement must be equal to twice the armhole. The armhole is 8 inches so the sleeve at its widest point must be 16 inches. 16 x 3 (gauge) = 48 stitches so we must increase from the 30 stitches we started with to 48 stitches. From here the principle is the same. 48 less 30 = 18. That means we must increase 9 stitches on each side. We have 50 rows to fit them (refer to set in style). 50/9 = 5.6. We round down to 5.
Cast on 30 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P1 for 2 1/2 inches. Change to 10 1/2 needles and stockinette stitch. Increase 1 stitch each end every 5 rows 9 times. Work even until sleeve is 18 inches. Bind off all stitches across row.
The one thing you must notice is that there is no cap. Not at all. A drop shoulder sleeve has no cap.
Raglan Shaping
All the pullovers we have learned to chart are worked up the same way up to the underarm. For the raglan, we add one inch to the underarm constant of sizes under 40 and 1 1/2 inch to the underarm constant of sizes 40 or over.
Let's take the same pullover we have been working on; size 40, round neck, etc. We begin as before.
Back: Cast on 60 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P1 for 2 1/2: inches. Change to 10 1/2 needles and stockinette. Work even until piece measures 17 inches. Bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Up to now everything is identical to the first sweater we charted. Let us see what we know up to now.
We started with 60 stitches
We eliminated 6 leaving 54 stitches.
Back of neck constant calls for 20 stitches.
54 less 20 divided by 2 = 17 stitches. That's the number of stitches for each shoulder.
Armhole constant is 9 1/2 inches or 9.5 times 4 = 38 rows.
To create a raglan shaping we must eliminate all the shoulder stitches and we have here 38 rows in which to do it. How often must we decrease? We know that — 17 times on each side. But we don't know how many rows apart these decreases must be made. Here is how we figure it out. We take the number of rows and divide it by the number of decreases. In very few cases will we get a whole number as an answer. For example, if we had 34 rows and 17 decreases, that would be perfect since 34/17 equals 2.
In this case where we have 38 rows and 17 decreases we end up with 2 as an answer and 4 rows left over. This indicates that 4 decreases will have to be made every (2 + 1) or 3 rows and (17 - 4) or 13 decreases will have to be made every 2 rows. To double check, 4 times 3 = 12 and 13 times 2 = 26. 26 + 12 equals 38 rows. That checks so it follows:
Decrease 1 stitch each end every 3 rows 4 times. Decrease 1 stitch each end every other row 13 times. Bind off remaining 20 stitches for back of neck.
This takes care of the back.
The front is identical to the back up to the point where the neck starts. We know that the round neck shaping starts at 7 1/2 inches or 30 rows. (2 inches below the end of the 9 1/2 inch armhole). We need to know how many stitches are left at this point.
We decreased 1 stitch every 3 rows 4 times. This means that we used up 12 rows and 8 stitches (4 on each side). 30 rows less 12 rows = 18 rows.
We are decreasing 1 stitch each end every other row for the next 18 rows. That represents 18 stitches (9 on each side). 18 stitches + 8 stitches = 26 stitches eliminated by the thirtieth row. That represents 13 decreases. We had 54 stitches left after the underarm bind off. We eliminated 26 stitches. That leaves 28 stitches. This is a round neck with 20 stitches for back of neck. The central bind off we know is 14 stitches, that leaves 28 less 14 or 14 stitches to be worked 1/2 on one side and 1/2 on the other. That is 7 stitches. It follows:
AT THE SAME TIME: Shape neck starting on row 31 of armhole (that is after your 13th decrease). Work 7 stitches. With second ball of yarn bind off 14 stitches and work 7 stitches. Decrease one stitch on each neck edge every other row 3 times.
Now we come to the sleeves. The body of the sleeve is identical to that of any other style we pick. That is it is identical up to the underarm bind off. From here on the bind off and decreases must match those of the body of the sweater. At first glance this seems easy, but there is an important question to ask.
Is the sleeve going to have enough stitches on it to allow for all the decreases? Will it be wide enough? Remember that the cap of the sleeve must match the underarm. For this sweater, we know that we need 17 decreases on each side. That represents 34 stitches, the minimum width possible. The sleeve we are making must measure 15 inches around or as we figured out before, 44 stitches. We will then work with the largest of these two numbers when charting the sleeve.
