The Knitting Architect
Application of Charting Principles—Cardigans
We will now cover a new idea. We have learned to chart pullovers. We will now learn to chart cardigans.
You may be surprised to hear that you already know how to chart the backs and sleeves of cardigans in a multitude of styles. These parts of cardigans are identical to those of pullovers. The differences are in the front.
There are basically 2 types of fronts. The first is the regular or buttoned cardigan. This means that the front panels overlap.
The second type is the open cardigan. The edges of front panels fit flush. Here we have 2 groups: (a) closed with a zipper and (b) no closure—usually done without rib.
Let's start with the open cardigans. The basic difference between the two types of open cardigans is in the finishing and in the fact that one has ribbing and not the other. All the numbers and calculations are identical. The only thing to remember is that we are taking the same number of stitches used in the back and breaking it in two; 1/2 for front right panel and 1/2 for front left panel. So for a round neck open cardigan (with zipper) it follows:
Front: Cast on 30 stitches on #8 needle. Rib K1, P1 for 2 1/2 inches. Change to 10 1/2 needle.
In order for the front edges of sweater to lay flat, we will rib between 1 and 2 inches on the center edge, your choice.
Work 26 stitches in stockinette and rib K1, P1 for 4 stitches on center edge. Work this way until piece is 17 inches.
Remember that now we shape an armhole on one side only.
Bind off 3 stitches at beginning of row on arm side. Decrease 1 stitch every other row on arm side 3 times. Work even until armhole measures 6 inches.
At this point we shape the neck. Remember that the back of neck is 20 stitches. This means that on the front, half or 10 stitches are on the right panel and 10 stitches are on the left panel of the cardigan. On a pullover we bound off center 14 stitches and decreased 3 stitches on each neck edge for a total of 20. For the cardigan we must bind off 1/2 of 14 or 7 stitches on each panel at neck edge and decrease the other 3 stitches. This will make the panels symmetrical. It follows:
Bind off 7 stitches on neck edge and decrease on neck edge 1 stitch every other row 3 times. Work even until armhole is 8 inches. Bind off 7 stitches at armside every other row 2 times. Reverse all shaping for second panel.
The cardigan is now done. Just back stitch it together.
Pick up on straight needles 52 stitches evenly around the neck and rib K1, P1 for 3/4 inch. Bind off.
Had you wanted this open cardigan to be without a zipper, to have it hang straight, all you would have to do is change your instructions to say the following:
All ribbing is done in garter stitch (or any other stitch that won't pull or curl) on large (10 1/2) needles. This cardigan can be made with all the various sleeves we studied by applying the very same principles.
Open V-neck cardigan
The same applies to the necks we learned to chart with the exception of the V neck. The main difference is that we do the ribbing around the neck at the same time as we work the front. We are going to bring the 4 ribbed stitches all the way to the back. The decreases will be made on the inside of the ribbing and we will decrease 1/2 of the back of neck minus 4 ribbed stitches. When the shoulders will be bound off these 4 stitches will be extended on both front panels until they meet in the middle of the back of neck. Then they will be sewn down. It works as follows:
Cast on 30 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P1 for 2 1/2 inches. Change to 10 1/2 needles. Work 26 stitches in stockinette and rib 4 stitches on center edge. Work even until the piece measures 17 inches. Bind off 3 stitches on arm side and decrease 1 stitch every other row on arm side 3 times. AT THE SAME TIME: On neck edge decrease 1 stitch inside of ribbing every 5 rows 6 times, (back of neck divided by 2 less rib = 20/2 less 4 = 6 times) When armhole is 8 inches, bind off 7 stitches on arm side 2 times. Place remaining 4 stitches on holder.
Reverse shaping for second panel. Back stitch pieces together. Continue 4 stitches of ribbing on each panel until both strips of ribbing are long enough to meet in the middle of the back of the neck. Sew strips together and sew down to back of neck.
Closed round neck cardigan
The main difference between an open cardigan and a closed cardigan is that when charting we add about 1 inch to the measurements of each of the front panels. An inch is equal to the gauge. Instead of casting on 30 stitches, for our closed cardigan front panel we will cast on 33 stitches. All this means is that when shaping the neck, we will have 3 more stitches to eliminate. It follows for a round neck:
Cast on 33 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P1 for 2 1/2 inches. Change to 10 1/2 needles. Stockinette for 29 stitches and rib remaining 4 stitches on center edge. When piece measures 17 inches, bind off 3 stitches on arm edge. Decrease 1 stitch on arm edge every other row 3 times. When armhole is 6 inches bind off 10 stitches on center edge (7 + 3). Decrease one stitch every other row on neck edge 3 times. When armhole is 8 inches, bind off 7 stitches on arm side every other row 2 times.
V-neck closed cardigan
The only other style cardigan warranting an explanation here is the V neck closed cardigan. We have 3 more stitches to eliminate and so it will read as follows:
Cast on 33 stitches on #8 needles and rib K1, P2 for 2 1/2: inches. Change to 10 1/2 needles. Stockinette for 29 stitches and rib 4 stitches on center edge. When piece measures 17 inches, bind off 3 stitches on arm edge. Decrease 1 stitch every other row on arm edge 3 times. AT THE SAME TIME: Decrease on neck edge, on inside of ribbing, one stitch every 3 rows 9 times (6 + 3). Everything else is the same as the open v neck cardigan.
No explanations are given here on how we arrived at making our decreases every third row. But I am sure you understand the principle by now.
Vests are sleeveless. They can be charted as pullovers or cardigans with regular shoulders or drop shoulders. Regular shoulders imply an underarm bind off and decreases just like for a set in sleeve. A drop shoulder implies no bind offs and no decreases. They are charted exactly the same way as the sweaters with sleeves. The only difference is that we pick up stitches around the armhole and create a short rib instead of attaching a sleeve. Sometimes we may just crochet a row or two around the armhole.
So you see, you already know how to make vests.
At this point, I would recommend that you go back to the beginning and start again. After a careful second reading of this book, I believe that you should have a clear understanding of its content. What is most important is that the principles demonstrated here be understood and remembered. For the details, you can always refer to notes or books. But the principles go beyond that. Armed with these principles you can tackle any charting job. You can break down any style into simple shapes that can be achieved by simply adding or decreasing. It all boils down to making use of these principles outside the confines of the styles we covered here.
You can chart sweaters sideways, or in one piece. You can chart long tunics or coats. You can chart any shape at all. Analyze the shape and then chart it. You can do it now!